Most brands celebrate Resort/Cruise season with festive beachwear or luxury uniforms for leisure activities, but Gucci went a bit darker. As the millennial-approved designer du jour and an aesthetic rebel, designer Alessandro Michele sent models down the runway in looks exhibiting a twisted view of religion and death. Included were Memento Mori leggings, death masks made from pantyhose, a teddy bear with a fatal wound, tons of huge hair, and an enormous white dress that could either be for a wedding or a ghost (but probably not Gucci Ghost). Click through the slideshow to ponder what kind of statement the Italian house may have been making.
It was a new day at Bottega Veneta. After being helmed by Tomas Maier for 17 years, the fashion house debuted a new look under Daniel Lee for Fall 2019. Interestingly enough, Lee previously worked under Phoebe Philo at Celine—and his vision at Bottega may just fill the Old Celine void currently plaguing the fashion world. Lee’s debut collection was minimal without playing it safe—ranging from edgy leathers to feminine dresses. Quilted leather jackets and skirts kicked things off on a tougher note before a series of dresses with sculptural necklines drew attention to the collar bones. Sparkling out from the pack, mirrored shirt dresses added a bit of unexpected playfulness into the collection. Both feminine and edgy, it was the chic minimalism we’d been missing from Old Celine
With Wednesday Addams hair and a starting point of the startlingly separate themes of "romance and fear," Prada once again delved into a deft mix of pretty and serious. A black wool off-the-shoulder coat and utility jackets somehow mingle perfectly alongside floral lace, pastel furs, and sparkly pumps. The bags are oversized and the shapes are mostly tailored, for the Prada woman who knows she needs to dress the part for her day job—but hasn't given up on her day dreams.
In the realm of PR opportunities, a politician in a poppy coat wouldn't normally rank high on a brand's wish list. But Nancy Pelosi's cinematic power look—featuring a red MaxMara, floor length coat from a 2012 collection—was arguably the unintended PR score of the year. The Speaker of the House wore the coat in question in December to the White House for a discussion about the government shutdown with President Trump. She emerged from the West Wing, shades on, like the chic superhero with an influential vote we were wishing for.
MaxMara is reissuing the Glamis style she wore at the end of March to capitalize on the moment. But the brand's creative director Ian Griffiths channeled that powerful woman vibe for the fall 2019 collection. The Carine Roitfeld-styled runway came complete with colorful, monochromatic fur looks, mixed with more staid, but equally chic beige, layered ensembles. In other words, it's for the modern woman to look fantastic and eye-catching now, and equally so in a half decade from now—or more
All fashion savvy ladies know it's best to get dressed from the shoes, up. Ferragamo took that lesson to heart when it named its footwear designer Paul Andrew to creative director recently. That meant for this collection, the designer was inspired by a 1942 archive shoe with an emphasis on color. Think: color-blocked leather looks and an overall cool, but elegant collection complete with some of the best outerwear we've seen all season.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
It's a party over at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and this one took place in the mid-90s—the heyday of the chic supers, from Kate to Christie. Today's supers, Bella included, walked in the mini skirts, jumpsuits, and one-shouldered dresses that are meant to dance in. It all felt like a welcome youthful surge in Milan.
Milan Fashion Week's Best Fall 2019 Runway Looks
GUCCI Cruize Collection 2019
Get ready for leather weather. Fall 2019 is shaping up to be one big Matrix reboot, except instead of your go-to black, think colorful leathers done in cognac, burgundy, and moss green. Tod's did it best with a series of buttery leather pieces from oversized jackets to skirt sets and pants. Leopard served as a palette cleanser in-between a range of fall color palettes, all challenging you to go beyond your worn-in black leather moto jacket
It's almost impossible to fathom the creative loss that will be felt throughout fashion following Karl Lagerfeld's passing. His final collection for Fendi honored that creativity—showing the line under his signature in lights and with Karl's sketches of the collection at each seat. The actual looks weren't about tribute, though, it was simply the latest from Karl for Fendi—suiting and furs, those signature "need them now" pieces like giant bows and logo tights and sheer, tulle skirting worn with oversized blazers. It's cool and current and already all over our Insta feeds—exactly as the designer would have wanted it
Alessandro Michele has been a breakout star in the fashion realm, but that hasn't made him immune to controversy. The designer has handled his missteps—specifically racially charged imagery on his runway, head-on, which could make the designer's inspiration of masks somewhat confounding. The show notes reference Hannah Arendt's 1958 book "The Human Condition." Specifically, Arendt "reminds us that we are persons when we choose the mask through which we appear on the world's stage...as a distinct and unique being among equals," says Arendt.
So perhaps, Michele is making a statement about the equality of humanity—how that plays into spiked collars, houndstooth suiting, Gucci logo knee pads, sweater dresses, and a '70s inspired tiger print coat remains a mystery. But Gucci's legions of fans will be pleased to see more, new Michele statements to invest in on today's runway.
Paul Surridge added a dose of Cavalli boldness by way of technicolor tiger stripes mixed with his own more minimal, structural approach. There was simple suiting and a fantastic black leather coat, alongside poppy hues of yellow and green. It's a new take on Cavalli two years into the creative director's tenure and we're into this fresh direction.
Versace is the ultra-glam label that the all the model girls are wearing when they hit the town. Bella Hadid recently appeared in the campaign for Versace x Kith. In other words, Versace has its eye on the young ones, and the young ones have their eye on the '90s. The theme at today's collection was supposedly "grunge" but through a very Versace lens. Think: those signature Versace prints, knit layers, slip dresses and corsets, and a subtle glam thrift store vibe. Grunge by Donatella sounds like just what the young Millenials ordered.
Best Looks from Paris Fashion Week: Fall 2019
A MOMENT OF SILENCE, A STANDING OVATION AND PLENTY OF TEARS FOR KARL LAGERFELD'S FINAL CHANEL COLLECTION
Karl Lagerfeld’s final collection for Chanel, designed before he passed away last month, walked at the Grand Palais today on a bed of faux snow, next to trees and charming chalet houses against a backdrop of snow capped mountains.
A moment of silence and a recording of the posthumous designer speaking before the collection walked served as tribute—but as a drawing of Coo Chanel and Karl Largerfeld sketched by the late designer at each seat read, “The Beat Goes On.”
Chanel is a joyous brand and this collection brought that joy,
après-ski style. The Chanel woman is a true traveler, who requires a wardrobe for each of her fabulous destinations, including the world's chicest mountaintops. Whether that be Gstaad, Aspen, or Hokkaido, she’s certainly covered in puffer jackets, black and white tweeds, white suiting, a furry snow cape, fair isle sweaters and snow boots, bien sur.
Penelope Cruz helped close the show in an ice queen-worthy mini dress before models walked to0 "We Could Be Heroes" by David Bowie, the same song which closed Karl's last show for Fendi in Milan. Karl will always be missed but he was most certainly still felt today.
The Centre Pompidou, Paris' epicenter of modern and contemporary art, served as a primary source of inspiration for Nicolas Ghesquière this season, as did "Culture" more loosely, which he describes as "what we see, what we accept,
what we learn. What’s left to us..."
And rather than look to the oh-so-haute Louvre, the designer chose a more urban, modern, downtown approach. As his show notes began, "perceptions shift..." And shift they did, although Ghesquière's girl is still the tough, mini-skirt-wearing girl she has been for seasons.
For Fall 2019, the designer paired bold shoulders, ruffles, sparkles, and other fanciful elements with grungier street elements for a mix that feels resemblant of the streets. He also played with a piece of every bold tone for a reason—"Green is water, blue is air, yellow is electricity. Red is human."—but used them sporadically. For the most part, this is still the cool-kid Vuitton girl you've come to know and love; she's just expanding her horizons.